As I said in an earlier post Laura and I were down in Schull for our holidays last week. And while we were there we took part in Calves week, the big sailing event run out of Schull. We weren’t on Chico though. The 250 nautical mile journey is a bit far for us just yet. Instead we helped bring down a 32 foot boat (for some reason most boats lengths are still given in feet, even by the French. The notable exception that I know of is J-boats, a US company who size their boats in metres. Go figure) two weeks ago and we were helping her owner, Eoin, race her for the week.
The first race of the regatta was an offshore one, from Crosshaven in Cork harbour to Schull, around the Fastnet. This was an overnight. I thought this would be interesting to do, and volunteered. Which is why I found myself crossing the start line at “Weavers point” in Cork harbour at 19:30 on Friday evening. We had 7 on board, all reasonably experienced sailors, but myself and Eoin were the only regulars on his boat. Laura and I race with Eoin every Thursday in Dun Laoghaire you see. This immediately elevated me (a relatively inexperienced sailor) from the status of “rail meat” (someone who is there to sit on the side of the boat as movable ballast and to do what they are told) to someone of importance telling people where things went, and how they were done. The sudden rush of power went to my head until I was brought back to reality when I was refused permission to tie slow moving crew members to the mast to be lashed with the cat-o-nine-tails (I always have one in my sailing bag for emergencies).

Port Tack. Canon EOS 300D, SK.
Once clear of Cork harbour things settled down. There were 9 boats in the race, and we had about 50NM to go to the Fastnet. Unfortunately the wind was blowing directly from that direction so we would have to “beat” our way there. This meant sailing alternate “tacks”, port and starboard, each about 45° off the wind. As the waves would be coming from the wind direction if meant we would slamming the boat into and over the waves all the time. This doesn’t make for pleasant on board conditions.
We started with 3 in the cockpit responsible for driving the boat, and 4 more of us sitting on the rails using our weight to give us more stability. Mercifully it didn’t rain, but from time to time the bow of the boat would punch into a wave and you would find yourself sitting in cold sea water. I had waterproofs on, but they weren’t totally waterproof, so gradually the damp seeped through stealing my heat. Still I did have waterproof boots. The two young fellas either side of me only had shoes which they had to take off and drain out every so often. Sitting out on the rails the boat’s healed over position and continuous rocking wasn’t too bad. But when you went below it made everyone very uncomfortable, and one person started to get sick. The only reasons to go below were to sleep, use the toilet (it was too rough to do the traditional over the side) and to get food.
This then was our situation for the 14 hours as we pounded our way towards the Fastnet into a Force 4-5 wind. While I was on deck I didn’t feel close to being sick, but I got quite queasy below. Other than a loo run I tried to stay on deck as far as possible. Instead I sat on the rail wrapped in my own thoughts. No one really was in the mood for talking. Each of us just sat there looking at the sea and occasionally if we came close, the other boats we were racing against. My biggest worry was that I would get too cold. The lack of activity, and the occasional splashing meant I could feel the heat very gradually seeping out of me, and with it my energy to do anything. It was good whenever we had to do a tack, as it got you up moving about, and got the blood circulating again, if just for a few minutes.
Once it got dark we organised a watch system of 3 hours on, and 3 off. Our turn to get some sleep came at 02:30. Once the others were up four of us stumbled downstairs to find somewhere to crash. I was lucky enough to get one of the benches in the main cabin. Undressing was limited to taking off my life jacket. It took a few minutes to drop off despite how tired I was. The pounding of the boat meant you never really got to get a proper sleep. You would startle awake periodically when we slammed off some particularly steep wave. Then when the boat tacked my lovely bench moved from the down side of the boat to the up side and I couldn’t stay in it anymore. I ended up on the floor, wedged between the table and the base of the bench, lying on some bags which actually was pretty comfortable. All too quickly though it was 05:30 and I was back on deck to watch the sun rise at 6. That was all the sleep most of us got for the night.
By now we were in sight of the Fastnet (and a few of our competitors). But it still was hours away. As one of the most experienced sailors on board said “I don’t know what all the fuss is about the Fastnet, it is a slog to get to from whatever direction you come”. At about 09:50 we finally made it to the famous lighthouse, turned right and pointed the boat for Schull, about 8 nautical miles away.
As soon as we turned through 90° we were now moving downwind and with the waves. The transformation on board was remarkable. The boat which had bucked and dived to 14 hours leveled out and cruised. Eveyone’s spirits lifted. There was a rush to use the head or just go over the side. Most of us had decided that the discomfort of a full bladder was less than that of struggling with layers of clothing on a rolling boat or even risking being tossed over board.

Racing around the Fastnet later in the week. The boat in the picture is a
Beneteau 31.7, identical to the one we were on. Canon EOS300D, SK.
After our 14 hours racing we had rounded the Fastnet with one other boat. So we were going to have an exciting finish as we chased each other to the finish. Eoin asked his crew did they have energy to hoist the spinnaker. In minutes it was flying and we had the best part of the race as we chased the other boat down to Long Island and into Schull harbour. We finally crossed the finish line at 11:09:52 on Saturday morning, and I had done my first offshore race.
So what did I think offshore racing? Well it is a lot tougher than the inshore sort. Our races in Dun Laoghaire are over in 1-2 hours and then it is back in. Even in the worst of conditions you know you are never too far from a shower and a hot meal. This was very different. The only hot thing we got was a cup-a-soup breakfast. No one felt much like spending time in the galley otherwise. Most of the time you were cold, felt queasy, and were really really tired. Although to be fair the experienced guys said that it was unusual to have such a long (14 hour) beat outside of a big offshore race like the real Fastnet Race or the Round Ireland. Another thing I noticed was how dull much of it was. Most of the time you have nothing to do. Apart from when some dolphins turned up around dawn the sea is pretty boring to look at. With mountaineering (my first and recently neglected love) there almost always is something spectacular to look at, and you are at least concentrating on your route and where to put each foot.
Would I do it again? I don’t know. It was tiring, it was uncomfortable, and it was monotonous. But it was an achievement, and I do feel you need to do difficult things every so often to add colour to your life, to test yourself, to show you are still alive, and to make you value the comfortable times even more. I suppose the answer is maybe. I shall see.
Postscript:
The day we got in, while I was sleeping for 13 hours, Eoin left a message with Laura to let me know we had finished 3rd in the race. I wouldn’t say it makes it all worthwhile, but it certainly makes it easier to consider going out to do it all over again. 